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Manchester Floor Sanders

Staircase Sanding & Restoration in Manchester

Sanding and refinishing wooden stairs after the carpet comes up, including treads, risers, nosings, spindles and a hard-wearing, non-slip finish.

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What staircase restoration involves

Stair restoration takes a carpeted or painted staircase back to bare wood and refinishes it for looks and safety. It's like sanding a floor but with far more hand-work: treads, risers, nosings and the tread-to-riser corners all need detail sanding, and the whole flight has to stay usable, so it's often done in halves or alternate steps. Because stairs are high-wear and a slip risk, they take a tough, lower-sheen or anti-slip finish and extra coats on the treads.

Signs you need staircase restoration

These are the situations where Manchester homeowners most often get in touch:

  • You've pulled the carpet off and want the treads on show
  • Treads are stained at the edges and worn bare in the middle
  • Old paint on treads, risers, spindles or the banister
  • Stairs squeak, creak or a tread feels loose
  • The existing finish is worn through on the tread nosings
  • You want a runner with sanded bare-wood borders either side
  • You want the stairs to match a sanded hallway floor

If any sound familiar, a free no-obligation survey will tell you exactly where you stand.

How the job works, start to finish

  1. Remove the carpet, gripper rods, tacks and runner nails, and fill the gripper and tack holes with a stainable, colour-matched filler
  2. Screw down and glue any squeaky or loose treads before finishing (sanding won't cure movement)
  3. Machine-sand the flat tread and riser faces with a random orbital, not an aggressive belt sander
  4. Hand-sand or scrape the nosings and the internal tread-to-riser corners, and the spindles and banister where included
  5. Work up the grits to about P150-P180 (no finer, or the finish won't key), then apply a tough floor-grade finish
  6. Build at least three coats on the treads, doing alternate steps so the stairs stay usable, and add a matt or anti-slip finish for grip

Machines & finishes we use

We work with trade-grade kit and finishes, not hire-shop machines:

  • Random orbital and detail/corner sanders
  • Floor-grade water-based lacquer or hardwax oil
  • Osmo Anti-Slip Polyx / Bona anti-slip additive
  • Stainable, colour-matched wood filler
  • Discreet clear or wood-tone anti-slip nosings/inserts
  • Chemical stripper and heat gun for painted flights

Staircase restoration on Greater Manchester floors

Many Manchester terraces have softwood pine or deal stairs that were painted or carpeted and never meant to be seen, with mixed-timber risers, knots and gaps, so results vary and a stripped period staircase is a big job. Where treads are good pine or hardwood they come up beautifully; where they're poor, a stair runner with sanded borders, traditionally fixed with brass rods, is often the smarter call.

What staircase restoration costs

Stairs are priced per step, not per m², because each tread, riser and nosing is fiddly hand-work: roughly £40-£100 per step in Greater Manchester (2026), with a basic flight around £500-£1,000+. Stripping old paint off treads, risers, spindles and banisters pushes it higher (a layered painted staircase can run a pro up to ~40 hours). Usually + VAT.

Every floor is different, so we quote each job from a survey. Request a free quote for an accurate figure.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will my sanded and varnished stairs be dangerously slippery?
Bare or matt-oiled wood actually grips better than high-gloss varnish; socks on smooth treads are the real hazard, especially for children and the elderly. We reduce the risk with a matt or anti-slip finish, a clear anti-slip additive stirred into the topcoat, discreet non-slip nosings, or a runner. There's no legal ban on gloss, but on treads it's slick underfoot, so we'd steer you away from it.
How do you sand right into the corner where the tread meets the riser?
No machine fits the internal corner, so it's finished by hand with a scraper, a detail or oscillating sander, or a sanding block. This hand-work, along with the nosings and spindles, is why stairs are slow and priced per step rather than per square metre. A belt sander is the wrong tool here: it only reaches about 70% of each tread and gouges easily.
How do you do the stairs while we still need to get upstairs?
We work in halves or alternate steps: finish every other tread, let it cure, then do the rest, combined with fast-drying finishes so the flight stays usable throughout. Treads are touch-dry in a few hours and take light careful use around 24 hours, with full cure over several days. We always finish the treads last and work top-down so you never have to tread on wet finish.
Do I need to strip old paint, or can it just be sanded off?
Layered old paint clogs the abrasive fast and, in older Manchester homes, can spread lead dust, so the bulk is best removed with a heat gun or chemical stripper first, then sanded back to bare wood. Spindles are slow, fiddly hand-work: a heat gun for thick top layers and chemical stripper with wire wool for the detail. We always check pre-1970s paint for lead before dry-sanding it.
Can I finish the stairs to match my sanded hallway floor?
You can use the same stain and finish system, but stair timber is often a different species and age from the floor, so it takes colour differently. We always test and expect to tweak the stain to get a close match in an open-plan hallway. Filling the gripper and tack holes with a stainable filler matters too, as ordinary shop fillers rarely take stain like real wood.

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